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Lower Cape

Brewster Book Store
2648 Mass. Rt. 6A, Brewster• (508) 896-6543

This delightful little shop is filled to the brim with hardcover and paperback books with a strong local-author and local-interest section and a terrific children's section. It also sells unusual cards and stationery. The shop holds regular book signings, especially with local authors, and offers a story time for little ones on Tuesday mornings. It's open daily.

Brewster General Store
1935 Mass. Rt. 6A, Brewster• (508) 896-3744• www.brewsterstore.com

Erected as a Unitarian church in 1852, The Brewster General Store is a landmark and a tradition. Revered by locals and visitors alike, it's a friendly, take-your-time kind of place where you grab a cup of coffee, a doughnut, and a newspaper and sit out on the porch on one of the benches (actually old church pews) and watch the world go by. You can also buy linens, mugs, teapots, cookbooks, jams, and T-shirts, among a great assortment of items. Children love coming in to pick out penny candy and put dimes in the turn-of-the-century player piano that gives the place a rollicking ragtime sound. On Sunday mornings the store fills up with folks getting their papers, and the coffee flows.

Upstairs you'll find antique linens, old milk bottles, sheet music, books, artwork, and other unique items. In summer, the shed in the back of the store opens as The Brewster Scoop, serving up the finest in ice cream and low-fat yogurt. The shop is open daily.

The Cook Shop
1091 Mass. Rt. 6A, Brewster• (508) 896-7698

This store has enough cooking implements, gourmet foods, gadgets, and decorative items to keep you browsing for hours. You'll find top-of-the-line cookware, coffee makers, waffle irons, gourmet foods, and everything you need to impress your friends in the kitchen. Don't miss the second floor, which is packed with dinnerware, cutlery, containers, baskets, and linens. The shop is open daily.

The Great Cape Cod Herb, Spice & Tea Company
2628 Mass. Rt. 6A, Brewster• (508) 896-5900• www.greatcape.com

Proprietor Stephan Brown runs the Cape's only all-natural herbal apothecary in a rambling old stable. Here, more than 170 Western and Chinese herbs are stored in glass containers on rough-hewn shelves. You'll also find books on herbs and natural healing. Brown grows many of the herbs himself and uses them in his unique holistic teas, which, he claims, might cure such ailments as urinary tract problems, ulcers, sinusitis, and sleep disorders. Brown also offers classes in natural healthcare and plant and weed identification walks around his property. The shop is open daily.

Handcraft House
3966 Mass. Rt. 6A, Brewster• (508) 240-1412• www.handcrafthousegallery.com

One of our favorites, Handcraft House (which really is in a former residence) serves as a showcase for owner Eileen Smith's beautiful watercolors, many of them Cape landscapes. But it also carries a variety of fine, handcrafted items largely by New England craftspeople. You'll find colorful hand-woven scarves, iron-forged candlesticks, wood marquetry boxes, glass suncatchers and jewelry, among many other items. The shop is open daily in season, on weekends in late fall and is closed from January to mid-April.

Hopkins House
2727 Mass. Rt. 6A, Brewster• (508) 896-9337

You may have a hard time distinguishing between the old and the new in this shop, located in a historic home and filled with a blend of antiques, reproductions, and folk art by owner Mary Beth Baxter, who has a knack for creating paintings that look as if they've been waiting a century for you to discover them. Her delightful designs turn up on wood, furniture, Christmas ornaments, cards, and even T-shirts. The attached bakery, run by Baxter's daughter, sells irresistible scones, muffins, sticky buns, and breads. Check out the themed herb and flower gardens out front--one planted specifically to attract butterflies--and the Potting Shed out back for plants. The shop is open Tuesday through Sunday through Christmas, and closed January to mid-May.

La Bodega
Lemon Tree Shops, 1075 Mass. Rt. 6A, Brewster• (508) 896-7340

This shop not only has lovely and unusual women's clothing, but a wide array of beautiful imported jewelry and gifts. In fact, it began with more of an emphasis on jewelry and gifts, but has gradually shifted its focus to clothing and accessories. Owners Nancy and Foster Phillips, who launched the shop in 1982 (its first location was in Dennis), travel extensively and bring back treasures to sell in the shop, mostly from Mexico and South America. The shop is open year-round.

Lemon Tree Pottery
1069 Mass. Rt. 6A, Brewster• (508) 896-9418

Opened in 1965, this shop has over the years, blossomed into a showcase of pottery, ceramics, jewelry, and other beautiful things. One specialty is very evident outside the shop and throughout the Lemon Tree complex of shops: lawn ornaments--everything from fountains to rabbits and cats. The shop also sells terra cotta herb markers, dream catchers, wonderful jewelry, ceramics, and hand-dipped tapers. The shop is open daily.

Linda's Originals
220 Mass. Rt. 6A, Brewster• (508) 385-2285, (800) 385-2284

The Yankee Craftsmen
220 Mass. Rt. 6A, Brewster• (508) 385-4758, (800) 385-4758• www.my-collectibles.com

Perched side-by-side on a hill, these two stores have been delighting collectors for a decade. Linda's Originals carries a wide range of hand-painted clothing and handcrafted items and the largest selection of afghans on the Cape. The store is also home to the Cats Meow, a captivating collection of miniature handcrafted buildings. (This is the only place in the country where you can buy items from the Cats Meow Cape Cod Collection, such as the Cape Playhouse, Scargo Tower, and the Chatham Lighthouse.)

The Yankee Craftsmen truly lives up to its name: The rooms abound with collectible items made by crafters from the Cape and worldwide. It also has one of the largest collections of Byers Choice Carolers in the country as well as Harbour Lights lighthouses. In the summer, be sure to visit the lavish, award-winning flower gardens. The shops are open daily.

Punkhorn Books
627 Mass. Rt. 6A, Brewster• (508) 896-2114

At first glance, you may think you've walked into a library. Owner David Luebke keeps his antiquarian books arranged in neat rows, according to the Dewey Decimal System. The Luebkes run the bookstore out of the ground floor of their house, and they specialize in fine arts, biographies, natural history, and the history of Cape Cod. They also have a fine selection of rare prints and maps. From June through October the bookshop is open daily except Monday. In the off-season it's open by appointment only.

The Strawberry Patch
2550 Mass. Rt. 6A, Brewster• (508) 896-5050

This red-shuttered old horse barn is the exclusive home of Hand-tiques, the name owner Mary Anne Boyd coined for her unique array of gifts. Many of the goods are displayed in antique display cases: a cast-iron stove holds cookie cutters and old post office boxes cradle candles.

In business more than 25 years, the shop carries lovely U.S.-made cotton throws, pillows, and tablecloths, along with kitchenware, dolls, gifts, candy, and Christmas decorations. Befitting a former equine home, the shop features several selling stalls, including the Teacher Stall (everything for a teacher or classroom) and the Fabric Stall (fabrics and other sewing necessities, including a wide array of threads stored in 1800s thread cases). A separate sale barn offers first-quality goodies at discounts of up to 50 percent. The Strawberry Patch is open daily.

Sydenstricker Galleries
490 Mass. Rt. 6A, Brewster• (508) 385-3272• www.sydensticker.com

The colors are bold and bright, the designs sharp and striking. The glass made here is so dazzling that several American embassies serve dessert to their guests on Sydenstricker plates, inspired by the art of ancient Egypt. Two sheets of glass are fitted into a terra cotta mold; the first sheet is decorated by sifting powdered glass through a stencil. A five-hour fusing locks in the color. Choose from dishes in various sizes (some with a signature rippled edge), complete place settings, rectangular serving plates, candy dishes, even ashtrays. Two showcases are filled with glass paperweights. You can watch the glass being made Tuesday through Saturday from 10 AM to 2:30 PM. The shop is open daily.

Allen Harbor Nautical Gifts
335 Lower County Rd., Harwichport• (508) 432-0353, (800) 832-2467• www.allenharbor.com

Even landlubbers will enjoy the incredible selection of items found here. There are jigsaw puzzles and calendars commemorating various Cape Cod landmarks, T-shirts, watches and jewelry (including an unusual charm bracelet that spells out "I love you" in colorful cloisonné ship flags), doormats, and decorative household treats. Allen Harbor also sells a great selection of tide clocks and wind and weather instruments. The shop, which also does mail order, is closed weekends during the off-season except at Christmastime.

 

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Cape Cod Bonsai Studio
1012 Mass. Rt. 28, Harwich• (508) 432-8400• www.capecodbonsai.com

Owner Michael Novik has planted his love and knowledge of gardening in Harwich, and the results are growing beyond belief. On this studio's sparkling clean shelves are an abundance of bonsai trees--dwarf juniper, elm, boxwood, and Japanese cherry--and tropical plants for sale in individual ceramic planters or in meticulously arranged groupings. You can also purchase accessories, including training wire, traditional ceramic planters, and selected pieces of suiseki, stone forms resembling mountains that are also used as planters. The prices are reasonable, and Novik's helpful advice will allay any fears non-green thumbers may have. He also offers courses and workshops in bonsai care and training. It's open by appointment in the off-season.

Cape Cod Cooperage
1150 Queen Anne Rd., Harwich• (508) 432-0788

The Cooperage is a step back in time and a must-see for anyone who wants a glimpse of living Cape Cod history. This big old barn is the only place where cranberry barrels and rough-sawed fish boxes (both used today by people as storage containers) are made by hand, just as they were more than 100 years ago. The store also offers an incredible selection of hand-painted furniture and staves, every conceivable arts-and-crafts notion, bevies of birdhouses, and old-fashioned kids' toys, such as pull-along ducks and rabbits and hobbyhorses. Adjoining is a genuine blacksmith shop where, every Saturday afternoon in July and August, you can watch blacksmith Robert Jordan making fences and kitchen tools. During season, you can also buy fresh-picked cranberries. It's open daily all year.

Cinnamon Stick
825 Mass. Rt. 28, Harwichport• (508) 432-3071

Cinnamon Stick--also known as Andrea's Cinnamon Stick for proprietor Andrea Evangelista-- still has the same homespun, cozy atmosphere it's had for more than a decade, but lots more of it! The shop offers a huge selection of bears, both stuffed and resin, including Boyds Bears, North American Bear's Muffy Bear, and the locally created Marsh Bears. You'll also find prints, cards, calendars, books, pottery, scrimshaw, and Christmas ornaments, along with collectibles such as Nelson Stock villages. The shop is open year-round, daily in summer and Wednesday through Sunday in winter.

Honeycomb Hollow
69 Mass. Rt. 28, West Harwich• (508) 430-7444• www.honeycombhollowcandles.com

If you love candles, you shouldn't miss this shop, where owner Judy Bissonette makes beeswax candles by hand. You'll find not only rolled tapers but also handmade scented beeswax jar candles and votive candles. Other beeswax and honey products, including skin care products, hand-dipped chocolates and honey bears, line the shelves. The shop is located in the Khorikian Plaza not far from the Dennis line. It's open daily all year.

Monahan and Company
540 Mass. Rt. 28, Harwichport• (508) 432-3302• www.monahanjewelers.com

The oldest family-owned jewelry store in the country, Monahan still carries on the tradition started by founder Jeremiah Monahan in 1815: quality jewelry at fair prices. Monahan and Co. designs and manufactures hundreds of styles of Nautical and Seashore related jewelry. They also custom design nautical pieces in 14K and 18K gold and platinum. Monahan and Co. is open daily May through October and weekends in the off-season.

The Potted Geranium
188 Mass. Rt. 28, West Harwich• (508) 432-1114• www.pottedgeranium.com

Every room of older Cape Cod house is filled with wonderful home accessories, folk art, crafts, and gifts. It's the kind of shop that puts you in a good mood the moment you walk in the door. You'll find such items as pewter bookmarks made in Chatham, locally produced weathervane Christmas ornaments, hand-painted mirrors, baskets, ceramics, linens, and even paper jewelry. If a new mom or baby is on your gift list, visit the baby room for blankets, layettes, clothes, and wooden toys. The former kitchen makes a fitting home for flavored teas and coffees, kitchen utensils and linens, and a sampling of jellies and jams from the Chatham Jam and Jelly Shop. Open daily in season, the shop is closed during the month of March and Wednesdays in the off-season.

Sea Street Books
537 Mass. Rt. 28, Harwichport• (508) 430-1816

This shop may be small, but it's got enough material for hours of browsing. We love the notes you'll find in selected books with comments and anecdotes that make deciding on a book much easier. It's also nice that the shop discounts books currently on the New York Times Bestseller List (25 percent off hardcovers, 10 percent off paperbacks). And, it has a great children's section, complete with a small table and chairs, a basket of crayons, and paper for little ones to draw on. That explains the many children's drawings hanging throughout the store. You'll also find tapes and compact discs of classical and jazz music. It's open daily 10 AM to 5 PM.

Wychmere Book and Coffee
Mass. Rt. 28 and Bank St., Harwichport• (508) 432-7868, fax (508) 432-8267

This lovely shop, opened in 1997, is roomy and organized and provides a cozy sitting area with self-serve coffee and cookies--refreshments are on the honor system, just leave your money in the teapot! Curl up in one of the inviting window seats if the resident cat hasn't claimed them. Along with a great assortment of bestsellers, and new and classic books, the shop sells cards and gifts and hosts regular author appearances and book discussions. It's open daily in summer and closed Tuesdays in the off-season.

Yankee Doodle Shop
181 Mass. Rt. 28, Harwich• (508) 432-0579

For more than 45 years, this has been one Yankee Doodle Dandy of a shop! Room after room of finished and unfinished quality country furniture, all made right on the premises, are offered at prices so low you'll question the price tag. The front porch, for instance, is home to at least 12 kinds of rockers, with prices averaging $75. Yankee Doodle markets a wide selection of cast-iron doorstops and reproduction mechanical banks, hard-to-find wooden cupolas, folk art--even authentic spinning wheels! In the off-season it's open Friday and Saturday only.

Amazing Lace
726 Main St., Chatham• (508) 945-4023

In 1989 Donna Burns gave her store a proper name: It is amazing, and it is full of lace. And so much more. Vintage clothing fans will have a field day here. We also loved the collection of turn-of-the-century folding fans--a steal at $75 each! The shop also offers a nice selection of 1930s tablecloths and chenille bedspreads, just like the ones Grandma used to have. In January and February it's open weekends only or by appointment.

Ben Franklin
631 Main St., Chatham• (508) 945-0655

This is one of an increasingly rare breed of retail shop: an old-fashioned five-and-dime store. It carries a wide variety of merchandise, from art supplies and toys to greeting cards, mugs, and T-shirts. We love to come here because it looks, feels, and even smells like the stationery-variety store we remember from childhood. Kids gravitate to this shop because it sells baseball cards, model kits, and basics such as Play-Doh and Silly Putty, and adults like it because it sells grown-up basics such as desk blotters, calendars, and magazines. The shop is closed Sunday in the off-season.

Cabbages & Kings Books
628 Main St., Chatham• (508) 945-1603

What a delightful shop! It has one of the largest children's sections we've come across in any bookstore and sells toys as well. We always have a tough time getting our little ones out of this store. Adults will appreciate not only the nice selection of quality books but also the unique greeting cards and stationery. The store will even gift wrap. It's open daily year-round.

 

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 Chatham Candy Manor
484 Main St., Chatham• (508) 945-0825, (800) 221-6497

People from all over the world have visited Chatham Candy Manor for the caloric concoctions that they make in small batches then hand-dip every day in the same tradition started 54 years ago by the store's founder, Naomi Turner. The selection is endless: chocolate-dipped fruits (including apricots, strawberries, and pineapples in dark or milk chocolate), hazelnut puree and chocolate treats shaped like scallops, and our favorite: cranberry cordials (fresh fruit melded with bonbon creme and liqueur, then covered with pure chocolate). Even the barley lollipops are kettle-cooked and poured by hand. When holiday season comes around, watch for demonstrations of candy-cane making. Mail order is available; call for a brochure and price list. The shop is open daily.

Chatham Cookware
524 Main St., Chatham• (508) 945-1550

Serious cooks will find everything they need, from wooden soup bowls to fancy potholders, along with pretty accessories to brighten their kitchens. There are hand-painted ceramic bowls and mugs, bright dish towels, napkins and tablecloths, and top-of-the-line cookware, among a wide assortment of other items. The store also houses a small bakery in the front where you can get scones, muffins, cookies, and other goodies, all made on the premises. In the rear of the store is a small cafe where you can feast on an ever-changing array of soups and sandwiches on delicious home-baked breads. Open nearly all year, the shop is open daily right through Christmas, usually closes for part of January, and may be closed on Tuesdays in February.

Chatham Jam and Jelly Shop
10 Vineyard Ave., Chatham• (508) 945-3052

You can't leave Cape Cod without a jar of beach plum jam, and this is just the place to get it. The shop, in a residential area just off Mass. Rt. 28, sells more than 75 varieties of homemade preserves, and several concoctions (wild beach plum, cranberry, and wild blackberry) are from fruit handpicked on Cape Cod. The shop offers--even encourages--taste sampling, so you can't go wrong. Gift sets and mail order are available. It's open Monday through Friday.

The Dead Zone
647 Main St., Chatham• (508) 945-5853

Since 1990 The Dead Zone has been paying homage to the legion of Deadheads--devout followers of the band The Grateful Dead. Inside you'll find reminders of the '60s and '70s: tie-dyed clothes in wild colors, irreverent bumper stickers, incense, and love beads. The shop is open daily.

Pentimento
584 Main St., Chatham• (508) 945-0178

This shop has wonderful ambiance--maybe it's the fact that it sells indulgent items such as luxurious sweaters and blouses, pretty blank journals, fine stationery, scarves, and jewelry. It also carries delightful children's books, whimsical picture frames, and home accessories. It's closed January, February, and March.

Scrimshaw by Marcy
333 Old Harbor Rd., Chatham• (508) 945-0782

Animal activists need not worry: The scrimshaw sold here is antique and was made long before any whale protection laws were put into effect. There's a nice selection, including whales' teeth with elaborate engravings and what are known as Sailor's Valentines--octagon-shaped boxes with elaborately decorated shell lids that natives on Barbados made and gave to sailors, who in turn gave them to loved ones upon their return home. The "scrimshaw" bookmarks, made from antique ivory piano keys, make unique gifts and are a great bargain at $20; a catalog of designs is available. It's open Monday through Saturday from May to Columbus Day, and by chance or appointment the rest of the year.

The Whale's Eye
6565 Mass. Rt. 28, Chatham• (508) 945-3084

Housed in an old barn, The Whale's Eye has an array of beautifully hand-painted furniture and mirrors. All the work is by Suzanne and John Rocanello, who opened the shop in the barn adjacent to their home in the late 1970s and soon after began marketing their creations at craft shows all over the Cape (see our Annual Events chapter). At the shop, you'll see chests, boxes, tables, and mirrors, many painted with nautical scenes. The Rocanellos do a lot of custom work, and if you bring in a fabric swatch or wallpaper strip, they'll be happy to use colors that will work with your decor. The shop is open daily in summer and a bit sporadically in spring and fall. "If the barn door is open, we're here," says Suzanne, but it's best to call first. It's open by appointment only in winter.

Yankee Ingenuity
525 Main St., Chatham• (508) 945-1288• www.yankee-ingenuity.com

Half gallery, half gift shop, Yankee Ingenuity carries unusual items in a wide range of prices, making it an ideal place to shop for a gift for any occasion. You'll find hand-carved animal figurines with fishing poles in their paws and fish dangling from their lines, unusual mirrors, clocks, and desk accessories, oversized stuffed animals, even Tiffany-style lamps. The shop is filled with interesting and beautiful things, from Impressionist-print umbrellas to jewelry, letter openers, and desk chimes. It's open daily.

Yellow Umbrella Books
501 Main St., Chatham• (508) 945-0144

Yellow Umbrella has been offering locals and tourists the latest in fiction and nonfiction bestsellers, used books, and works by local authors since 1979. The store also has an extensive section on books about Cape Cod. It carries rare and out-of-print books, used hardcover and paperback books, and will do special orders. Be sure to visit the outdoor bargain racks--any book is a buck. It's open daily year-round.

The Baseball Shop
26 Main St., Orleans• (508) 240-1063

Score a home run every time if you're looking for the latest in all things baseball. The store stocks more than 1,000 different baseball caps as well as trading cards, bumper stickers, autographed material, and select clothing. It's open year-round, daily in season and closed Tuesdays in winter.

Beth Bishop
Mass. Rt. 28, Orleans• (508) 255-0642• www.bethbishop.com

Locals will tell you that Beth Bishop "is always in style." Known for its service and wide selection of fine-quality dresses, sportswear, beachwear, sleepwear, and outerwear, it's been a favorite Cape-wide clothing store since 1985. At Beth Bishop you can create a wardrobe of great pieces that work alone or together, from weekday to weekend. The shop is open year-round.

Bird Watchers' General Store
36 Mass. Mass. Rt. 6A, Orleans• (508) 255-6974, (800) 562-1512• www.birdwatchersgeneralstore.com

This is a store for the birds--literally. Since 1983 owner Mike O'Connor's entire focus is on the needs of both birds and bird watchers. This is the place to buy a bird feeder--the store carries more than 100, not to mention tons of bird feed to fill them! You can't be a bird watcher without binoculars, and Bird Watchers' carries some 40 types. It also stocks a comprehensive selection of bird books, T-shirts, socks, door knockers, welcome mats, sun catchers, magnets, gift wrap, and note cards--all centered around birds. Even if you aren't into our feathered friends, you must stop here: Tell the super-friendly staff a joke, and they'll give you a gift. Now that's something to crow about! The shop is closed Thanksgiving and Christmas.

Booksmith/Musicsmith
Skaket Corners, Mass. Rt. 6A and West Rd., Orleans• (508) 255-4590

This is a great place to shop if you're into books and your other half is into music. You'll both be happy browsing here, as half the store is devoted to hardcover and softcover books, and the other half to compact discs and tapes. The store also sells calendars, magazines, cassettes, and videos, and has a great children's corner in back, complete with a small table and chairs where little ones can sit and read. It's open daily year-round.

Compass Rose Bookstore
Main St., Orleans• (508) 255-1545

A roomy shop with a friendly, helpful staff, Compass Rose features a great collection of books, along with cards, stationery, date books, and neat items such as rubber stamps and magnetic poetry. It's nicely arranged and even has a small sitting area. Compass Rose holds frequent book signings and other events and is open daily.

Crazy Horse Tack and Gift Shop
125 Mass. Rt. 6A, Orleans• (508) 240-2244, (800) 243-4003

Horse-crazy folks around here come galloping to this shop, which sells all sorts of equine products, from saddles and bridles to riding apparel, jewelry, and toys. There's a nice selection of gift items such as coffee mugs, key chains, and books, so if you've got a horse lover on your gift list, this is the place to go. The shop sells both English and Western tack and apparel and also carries plenty of horse care products. It's open year-round.

 

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Focalpoint Studio
Post Office Sq., Main St., Orleans• (508) 255-6617• www.focalpointstudio.com

For 26 years, Focalpoint has been specializing in family portraits, which are often done at the beach. If you're vacationing what better way to remember your stay here? Local photographer/owner Bob Tucker has created traditional portraits for hundreds upon hundreds of families and sparkling candids at more than 500 weddings. Focalpoint will also produce photo images on T-shirts, mouse pads, and other items. They offer framing services, color laser copies, and fax service. It's open year-round.

The Goose Hummock Shop
Mass. Rt. 6A, Orleans• (508) 255-0455• www.goose.com

Outdoor enthusiasts find The Goose Hummock Shop ideal for one-stop shopping. From bait and fishing equipment to camping gear, firearms, clothing, canoes, kayaks, and bicycles, it's all sold and serviced by a knowledgeable staff either here or in the store right behind the main one. Don't need any sand eels today? Then stop in for a tides chart and map--they're free! The shop is open daily.

Kemp Pottery
9 Mass. Rt. 6A, Orleans• (508) 255-5853

Here's your chance to see a potter at work, as this is not only Steve Kemp's store but also his studio, and has been since 1978. His varied designs, often inspired by nature, include lamps, sinks, tiles, bird feeders, fountains, and sculpture, and many of them are made with Nauset Beach sand. Kemp also does unique bas relief signs, several of which can be seen at the Cape Cod Museum of Natural History in Brewster. His functional pieces, including dinnerware, are
lead-free and safe for the oven, dishwasher, and microwave. The Kemps also have a shop in West Brewster. Hours vary in the off-season.

Kid & Kaboodle
115 Mass. Rt. 6A, Orleans• (508) 240-0460

At last, a store that sells good children's clothing at reasonable prices! Whether you need a gift for a baby shower, play clothes for your toddler, or a christening gown for your grandchild, this is the place to come. If you're shopping with little ones, they can play with the toys in the back room while you browse, but don't forget to visit that room yourself, as it's filled with great bargains! Kid & Kaboodle also carries maternity clothes and rents baby furniture. It's open daily.

Oceana
1 Main Street Sq., Orleans• (508) 240-1414

If you love beautiful things, you'll want to browse here. It's the kind of shop that inspires you to slow down and take your time, so tranquil is the ambiance. Oceana carries lovely jewelry, candlesticks, nature books and original art, wall hangings, rugs, and hand-painted tables, along with many other items. One unique creation that makes a great gift is an Oceana mussel shell wreath, either circular or heart-shaped and available in several sizes. A children's corner is filled with nature-oriented toys, rubber stamps, and wooden toys. Don't miss this shop; it's open daily.

Orleans Whole Foods Store
46 Main St., Orleans• (508) 255-6540

This is a true health food store, where you can buy grains and cereals in bulk, and purchase freshly ground peanut butter, vitamins, and a wide variety of organic products, including produce. It's also a great place to grab a quick lunch, as the store makes healthy sandwiches, soups, and sometimes pizza--sit on the bench out front and watch the world go by. But don't overlook its gift shop potential: this good-for-you shop carries a nice selection of books, with an emphasis on spiritual topics, self-help themes, and cooking; lovely, unusual greeting cards; and Crabtree & Evelyn soaps and lotions--not to mention calendars and T-shirts. It's open daily.

XO Clothing Shop
50 Main St., Orleans• (508) 255-4407

We confess: We didn't really want to tell you about this shop, which sells quality women's clothing at fabulously low prices. It's one of those shops you only tell your best friends about. But owner Diane Smith does such a good job keeping up with her inventory that we figure there must be room for a few more Insiders to discover her shop. Not only are the prices great, but Diane and her staff are friendly and helpful.

The Chocolate Sparrow
4205 U.S. Rt. 6, Seatoller Shops, North Eastham• (508) 240-0606

Anyone who appreciates really good chocolate will love this shop--the aroma alone is heavenly. You'll find excellent fudge, hand-dipped chocolates, and decadent truffles, all made here. If you come at the right time, you can watch them being made. The Chocolate Sparrow also has a Wellfleet location, (508) 349-1333, open only in summer, and a coffee bar-chocolate shop in Orleans, The Hot Chocolate Sparrow (see our Restaurants chapter). The shop is open daily.

Collectors' World
U.S. Rt. 6, Eastham• (508) 255-3616, (800) 421-4270

This is one of those shops where you'll find yourself wandering around and losing all track of time. The shop carries both antique and new collectibles, including dolls, gnomes, model cars, lighthouses, and cottage figurines. It also sells quality jewelry and unusual wooden toys for children. The shop is open year-round, but hours are sporadic in winter.

The Glass Eye
U.S. Rt. 6, Main St. Mercantile, Eastham• (508) 255-5044

We love browsing in this lovely shop on a sunny day, when light gleams off all the colored glass. And when it's cloudy, this shop will brighten your day. All the stained-glass work displayed in the gallery is by owner John Knight, but the shop also carries blown glass, handcrafted jewelry and gift items from a variety of other artists, many of them local. In addition to glasswork, the gallery sells wonderful handmade paper creations by co-owner Donna Knight, who often offers papermaking demonstrations. Be sure to visit the working stained-glass studio downstairs. Scrap glass is free for the asking, and you can even take lessons in the off-season. The shop is open daily through Christmas, and closed on Sundays from January to spring.

Grandmother's Attic
4205 U.S. Rt. 6, Seatoller Shops, North Eastham• (508) 255-7789

This children's bookshop sells wonderful children's books and educational toys. New owner Susie Howard, who bought the shop in May 1997, has broadened the selection of teachers' books and games, and added a tutoring center upstairs. An illustrator and mother of five, Ms. Howard knows what children like and stocks her shelves accordingly. The shop also hosts free author appearances and professional storytellers two evenings a week in summer and on Saturday afternoons in the off-season. The shop is open Monday through Saturday in summer, and closed Mondays in winter.

Kristi Klein Originals
U.S. Rt. 6, Main Street Mercantile, Eastham• (508) 255-9252• www.kristikleinoriginals.com

Although this shop also carries jewelry and accessories, the real attraction is Kristi Klein's Children of the World tapestry design, featured in vests, jackets, luggage, pillows, and Christmas stockings. It's a beautiful design, charming yet classy, and a donation to children's charities is made on all sales. The shop is open daily.

Sunken Meadow Basketworks& Pottery
125 N. Sunken Meadow Rd., North Eastham• (508) 255-8962

In an airy studio set among pine trees is a collection of gorgeous handmade baskets created by owners Hugh and Paulette Penney, who focus on form rather than function. Some are functional as well, but that's secondary to the rich colors, patterns, and textures they feature. Hugh Penney's unique basketry wall hangings are beautiful, incorporating grape vines for a wild, natural look ideal for giving any room a focal point with both color and texture. You'll also find pinch pottery and handmade jewelry by Paulette at very reasonable prices. The shop is open year-round, daily in spring, summer, and fall but with more sporadic hours in winter, when you'll want to call first.

The Eclectic Company
93 Commercial St., Wellfleet• (508) 349-1775

This aptly named shop offers a diverse assortment of unusual home accessories, clothing, and jewelry. You'll find darling hand-painted furniture, colorful ceramics, linens, and unique accents for your home, such as die-cut house numbers made from house-shaped pieces of black steel. It's open daily in summer and on weekends in spring and fall; the shop closes after Columbus Day and reopens again in May.

Herridge Books
E. Main St., Wellfleet• (508) 349-1323

The books here are in such great shape that many customers cannot believe they are used. The store stocks the very best in dozens of genres from architecture to zoology. Don't miss the lower level, reached via a yellow stairway with an unusual handrail made from an oar; you'll find some wonderful old volumes there. Bird lovers will relish the limited-edition Audubon prints that are based on originals and sanctioned by the Audubon Society. Don't forget to check out the small but delightful collection of hand-colored postcards sitting at the front register. Herridge Books is open daily in summer, weekends only in late fall, and closed January to mid-April.

 

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Jules Besch Gallery
275 Main St., Wellfleet• (508) 349-1231

Proprietor Michael Tuck's store bears testimony to his belief that letter writing need not be a lost art. Glorious blank and versed cards for everyday and special occasions line the walls of his gallery, along with beautifully colored blank stationery sold by the sheet. Wooden racks hold luxurious wrapping paper, also sold by the sheet. The gallery also carries an array of inkwells and ink, and fountain and quill pens. You'll also find handcrafted mirrors, framed with scraps of driftwood, shards of broken Blue Delft china, lobster claws, skate egg cases, and other seashore treasures. It's closed in January, open weekends only from mid-February through mid-May, and keeps regular hours the rest of the year.

The Kite Gallery
75 Commercial St., Wellfleet• (508) 349-7387

The sky's the limit in this festival of everything fancy and high-flying. The pickings are far from slim: The shop has a huge selection of professional stunt kites, single-line kites, and colorful (and, in some cases, elaborate) windsocks and flags. The Kite Gallery is closed in the off-season.

Salt Marsh Pottery
115 Main St., Wellfleet• (508) 349-3342

Katherine Stillman's wheel-thrown pottery has a free and easy quality to it. Most of the plates and cups are designed with free-form pears (a homage to the pear tree in front of her studio, perhaps?) and abstract designs. All her wares are lead-free and can go from oven to dishwasher. We also give Katherine credit for her open-door policy: If you want to buy something and she's not there, simply leave cash or fill out a charge slip. Her trust is as beautiful as her pottery.

The Secret Garden
Main St., Wellfleet• (508) 349-1444

It's not a secret any longer: This two-story garden is overrun with charming garden art, folk art, twig love seats, garden goodies, crushed-velvet hats, birdhouses, animal marionettes, and an eclectic selection of jewelry. Kids go bonkers for the animal- and fish-shaped change purses from Tibet.

The Wellfleet Collection
Main St., Wellfleet• (508) 349-0900

This gallery/shop is a delightful browse. Filled with tastefully arranged artwork, quilts, pottery, folk art, linens, jewelry, and antiques, the shop represents the works of largely New England-based artists and craftspeople, including Cape artists. Open daily Memorial Day to Columbus Day, it's open Saturdays in late fall through Christmas and closed January to Easter, when it reopens for weekends.

Wellfleet Flea Market
Mass. Rt. 6, within the Wellfleet Drive-in, South Wellfleet• (508) 349-2520, (800) 696-3532www.wellfleetfleamarket.com

This outdoor extravaganza and Cape Cod institution since 1957 features up to 300 vendors selling everything from imported dresses, leather bags, and fleece vests to used books, antiques, and handmade furniture, all at great prices. Items we've found here include old license plates, new sweatshirts, designer men's shirts, used paperback books, great old prints, and shampoo! It's open from 8 AM to 4 PM on Saturday and Sunday mid-April through October. During July and August the Flea Market is open Saturday, Sunday, Wednesday, and Thursday. It's also open on holiday Mondays! Admission is $1 per carload and $2 per carload on Saturdays and Sundays in season, June 27 to Sept 5. If you stay long enough to get hungry, you can grab a bite at the snack bar. There are restrooms for your convenience too. Many of the vendors accept credit cards; many are also open to price haggling.

West Main Books
41 W. Main St., Wellfleet• (508) 349-2095

This small bookstore, in business since 1972, packs a remarkable 14,000 volumes into two rooms. Because of the limited space, owner Joanna Fabris carefully selects each book so that she has the best of the best in each category. There is something for everyone from poetry to travel to children's books. During the summer West Main Books hosts book parties and readings. The shop is open year-round, daily in June, July, and August, most every day in the off-season, and only on Friday and Saturday in the winter.

Atlantic Spice Company
2 Shore Rd., Truro• (508) 487-6100, (800) 316-7965

Trust us when we say we're going to send you someplace spicy. This warehouse sells row after row of spices and herbs, from allspice to vanilla beans and everything in between. You can buy in bulk (1- or 5-pound packages), or if you're unsure of the potency of a particular spice, you can buy a smaller sampler bag or ask for a taste. Atlantic also sells a wide range of teas (loose and in tea bags), shelled nuts, seeds, and baking items. The shop is open Monday through Saturday all year.

Susan Baker Memorial Museum
46 Mass. Rt. 6A, North Truro• (508) 487-2557

Everyone has a right to his or her own idiosyncrasies, and Susan Baker is no exception. Not wanting to wait until she died to have her own memorial museum, she opened this pop palace in 1984. Once you spot Susan's work, you won't forget her startling and brightly colored pieces that are sometimes three-dimensional, sometimes satirical, sometimes in the form of printed booklets (her oh-so-cute but crudely drawn cats and dogs are big sellers). Who says art can't be fun? The shop is open daily in season and erratically off-season (ring the bell at the side door if you'd like to see the collection in the off-season).

The Whitman House Quilt Shop
U.S. Rt. 6 at Great Hollow Rd., North Truro• (508) 487-3204• www.whitmanhouse.com

It would be easy to call this store, sitting next to The Whitman House (see our Restaurants chapter), a class act: The building is a former schoolhouse and the oldest structure in Truro. The specialty here is Amish quilts, new and old, with prices that are more than reasonable. The two floors also showcase modern-day cranberry glass, teddy bears, a profusion of potpourri, brass beds, and dolls. It's closed in the off-season.

Adams Pharmacy
254 Commercial St., Provincetown• (508) 487-0069

Come to Provincetown's only drugstore to revel in the charm of a small-town apothecary. Adams was founded in 1870, and except for the products found on the shelves and the dates on the newspapers in the rack, we bet little has changed (except, perhaps, the prices of prescriptions and over-the-counter drugs). Adams even has one of those long steel lunch counters you never see anymore. A great way to learn about the town is to sit and order coffee early one morning, when the old-timers gather to exchange stories (both real and exaggerated) of days gone by. The store is open daily.

Cabot's Candy
276 Commercial St., Provincetown• (508) 487-3550

Candy stores are a dime a dozen in Province-town, but none comes close to Cabot's. The Cicero clan began making fudge and saltwater taffy on the premises in 1969, and they are the only ones making taffy this way on the Lower Cape. Stand inside or in front of the huge picture window and watch as a massive spool of taffy is tamed into individually wrapped bite-size pieces. (Ask for a free sample.) The flavors sometimes change, but you can be sure of finding cranberry, grape, chocolate, cherry, piña colada, peanut butter, licorice, and orange-pineapple. Cabot's also sells sugar-free taffy. It's open only holidays and weekends in the off-season.

Exuma Fine Jewelry
283 Commercial St., Provincetown• (508) 487-2746• www.exumajewelry.com

A fixture in Provincetown for 30 years, Exuma specializes in custom jewelry, creating classic and modern designs in 14 and 18 karat gold and platinum. Rings are big here--gorgeous settings of sapphires, rubies, emeralds, and diamonds, to name just a few, glitter in the cases. Jeweler and craftsman Gunter Hanlet, originally from Germany, favors clean, uncomplicated designs that never go out of style. The showroom, located diagonally across from Town Hall, is open year-round, daily in summer, six days a week (closed Wednesdays) through Christmas and on weekends only January through March.

Galadriel's Mirror
246 Commercial St., Provincetown• (508) 487-9437

This store is truly a gem--or more accurately, a lot of gems! You won't be able to resist running your fingers through the bowls of polished stones and touching the jagged edges of brilliant minerals. You'll find jade, rose quartz, topaz, and other stones along with gold and silver jewelry. Take your time in here; there's a lot to see, and browsing among such beautiful things will put you in a tranquil mood. The shop, a fixture in Provincetown for 28 years, is open year-round.

Good Scents
366 Commercial St., Provincetown• (508) 487-3393• www.goodscentsptown.com

This small corner store is filled with all you need to pamper yourself -(or someone else): lovely scented soaps, shampoos and lotions, along with bath brushes, luxurious robes, and massage oils. Choose from a variety of skin-care products, and have lotions, shampoos and bath gels custom-scented with essential or perfume oils. Take them home and you'll know why they call this shop Good Scents. The shop happily makes up gift baskets and does mail order. It's open daily in season, closes for the month of January, and has limited hours in the early spring.

Halcyon Gallery
371 Commercial St., Provincetown• (508) 487-9415

This isn't a gallery of art to look at, but a gallery of art to wear. Owner Suzanne Larsen has for 11 years prided herself in carrying unique clothing and jewelry. Don't shop here if you want to look like everyone else; here you'll find clothes and jewelry with true artistic flair and spirit, the kinds of things that put you in a good mood the moment you put them on. Take a walk on the wild side and add something fun to your wardrobe. Halcyon, which carries the work of both local and regional artists, is open year-round.

Mad Hatter
360 Commercial St., Provincetown• (508) 487-4063

Hats off to this ingenious store, a meld of the whimsical and functional. Though Mad Hatter sells jackets, shirts, and scarves, people head here for the crowning touch. Choose from zany headgear, such as a multicolored beanie with a propeller, or more traditional, classic designs. You can also get custom-made hats here. The shop is open daily in season and weekends from the beginning of January through mid-March.

Northern Lights Hammocks
361 Commercial St., Provincetown• (508) 487-2385• www.northernlightshammocks.com

Tootsies tired? Don't shop 'til you drop: Take a break by sampling one of the many hammocks here. The friendly staff will try to get you to sample the swinging, swaying set, whether it be one made of rope, cotton, wood or canvas. (Your feet will thank you.) Some of the hammocks here are true works of art. One Mexican import features a polished wooden base that could harmonize with the décor of even the chic-est home. The shop is open daily in season and weekends only off-season.

Now Voyagerand Cape & Dagger
357 Commercial St., Provincetown• (508) 487-0848• www.nowvoyaerbooks.com

These two bookshops, side by side on Commercial Street across from the Heritage Museum, are run by Diane Johnson and Nan Cinnater, who first launched Now Voyager, named after a line from a Walt Whitman poem and the Bette Davis classic. Best known for its collection of gay and lesbian books, Now Voyager also has the latest in fiction and nonfiction. It also specialized in mystery, until that genre grew to the point where it seemed to warrant opening a whole new shop. Cape & Dagger is now the Cape's only mystery bookstore, specializing in mystery and suspense. Now Voyager also has a sampling of CDs, cassettes, and videos as well as used books. The shops close for a winter break in the month of January.

Provincetown Bookshop
246 Commercial St., Provincetown• (508) 487-0964

Open since 1964, this year-round shop is filled floor to ceiling with hardcover and paperback books, everything from poetry and plays to bestsellers with a good selection of Cape Cod books. Enter through the sliding wood door and you feel instantly at home. A great shop for browsing, it's open daily.

Recovering Hearts Bookstoreand Gallery
2 and 4 Standish St., Provincetown• (508) 487-4875

You don't have to be recovering to appreciate this specialty bookstore, which carries the best in self-help titles along with inspirational art and all sorts of things that help you feel better, such as candles, soaps, and incense. It's closed in January.

Small Pleasures
359 Commercial St., Provincetown• (508) 487-3712

If you love antique jewelry, this is a must-see shop. The lovely glass-topped display cases are packed with vintage treasures. You'll find rubies, emeralds, diamonds, and moonstones in unique, original settings. The store also carries a selection of old silver spoons, tongs, and other small items. The pleasure will be yours. It's open May through October.

Tailwaggers
205 Commercial St., Provincetown• (508) 487-6404• www.provincetown.com/tailwaggers

A full-service pet palace, Tailwaggers offers all sorts of unusual dog and kitty treats, food by the can or bag, leashes and collars, beds and brushes, combs, and other grooming aids. For pups that get chilly in winter, Tailwaggers offers an extensive line of winterwear. With such great toys for both felines and canines, the shop has been called a toyshop for pets. The wall behind the cash register is devoted to pictures of people with their satisfied pets. Tailwaggers is the only store in town to offer thirsty critters their own water dish. Open daily in season, Tailwaggers is closed Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday off-season.

 

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