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Attractions

Martha's Vineyard is an island rich in history. Settled just decades after the Pilgrims arrived in Plymouth, the island has grown, prospered and suffered over the years.

The Vineyard is a natural playground with its miles and miles of beaches and beautiful country settings, which might make you forget that colonists, patriots, whaling ship captains, and Civil War soldiers once called this sandy island home. Today, their homes and churches and even gingerbread cottages stand as reminders of the grand lives they lived, lives that helped put Martha's Vineyard on the map as an important American port.

Many of the attractions listed below are historical sites that have, over the years, played a role in the island's development. We feel strongly that you would miss out if you left these shores without first learning a bit about the history behind the beauty. The island's five lighthouses are listed according to location.

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Vineyard Haven

Association Hall and Cemetery
Spring St., Vineyard Haven

Originally a Congregational and Baptist Church built in 1844, this building is now the town hall and is also home to the Katherine Cornell Memorial Theater. Behind the building is an old cemetery with stones dating back to the 18th century.

Old Schoolhouse Building
110 Main St., Vineyard Haven• (508) 693-3860

Owned by the Martha's Vineyard Preservation Trust, the island's first schoolhouse dates back to 1829. In 1776 a Liberty Pole stood in front of this building. When the British decided they would take it down for use as a spar on one of their vessels, three Vineyard Haven women blew up the pole with gunpowder rather than let the patriotic symbol fall into enemy's hands. To commemorate their patriotism, a new pole was erected in 1898. Today, the Vineyard Seaman's Society and the Martha's Vineyard Seafaring Center occupy the building. It is open year-round and a donation is requested at the door instead of admission.

Seamen's Bethel
15 Beach St., Vineyard Haven

Bethels are chapels used by seamen. This one has been catering to the needs of visiting sailors since 1893 and houses a display of maritime artifacts, including carved ivory and old photographs--gifts of seafarers in appreciation of the bethel's work and hospitality.

Sea Captains' Houses
William St., Vineyard Haven

The largely residential William Street boasts many sea captains' houses, some of them now inns. Spared by the great fire of 1883 that engulfed much of the waterfront, William Street is now part of the official Historic District in which buildings are protected from alteration.

West Chop Lighthouse
Main St., Vineyard Haven

Follow Main Street westward to its end, and there you will discover West Chop Lighthouse, the island's first lighthouse site. The light was initially constructed of wood in 1817. This was replaced, in 1838, by the present brick structure. In 1848 it was moved back from the eroding 60-foot cliff, only to be moved again in 1891. It stands 84-feet tall and emits a white light that can appear either red or pinkish depending upon your vantage point due to red-tinted glass on one side of the tower.

 

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Oak Bluffs

Civil War Memorial Statue
Seaview, Lake and Ocean Aves., Oak Bluffs

At the busy intersection across the street from the Oak Bluffs ferry stop is a peculiar monument, and like most things in Oak Bluffs, it's the color scheme that is its peculiar attribute. This Civil War memorial dating to 1892 reads: "Erected in honor of Grand Army of the Republic by Charles Strahan, Co. B. 21st Virginia Reg." Yes, you read correctly, it was erected by a Confederate soldier--way up here in Yankee territory! In 1980, the town of Oak Bluffs repainted the Union soldier atop the memorial in Confederate gray colors to pay homage to Strahan.

The Cottage Museum
One Trinity Park, Oak Bluffs• (508) 693-0525

This museum allows you a rare glimpse at the inside of a gingerbread cottage. It is representative of the more than 300 fancifully designed and painted cottages that line the narrow streets of the 30-acre-plus campground community. The architecture of these cottages was modeled after the Newport, Rhode Island, Victorian style, but these have special (could we say, revolutionary) touches and colors that helped create a style unique to Oak Bluffs. Plan to take the better part of an hour just to stroll through the cottage community and examine the architecture and the many colors. The whole place is a 30-acre museum in itself!

East Chop Lighthouse
Oak Bluffs

Tall atop a bluff it stands, some 80 feet above the sea, casting its lonely beam across the waves of Nantucket Sound below. This cast-iron lighthouse was built in 1876, replacing a wooden light erected in 1828 that burned down. Originally brown-red in color, it was known as the Chocolate Lighthouse until it was painted white in 1988. It emits a green light, marking the port side of Vineyard Haven Harbor and balancing West Chop's red beam marking the starboard side.

Flying Horses Carousel
Circuit Ave., Oak Bluffs• (508) 693-9481

This is the oldest operating platform carousel in the United States. It features 20 wooden horses sporting real horse hair and glass eyes. It was constructed in New York City in 1876 and arrived at Oak Bluffs in 1884. Open from mid-April through mid-October, it is listed as a National Historic Landmark. Rides are only $1. It's great entertainment for the kids, and yes, you do get to grab for the brass ring!

Tabernacle
Trinity Park, Oak Bluffs

At 100 feet high, 130 feet wide, and with seating for more than 3,000, this open-air auditorium is considered one of the largest wrought-iron structures in the United States. A uniquely beautiful piece of architecture combining the seemingly unlikely mixture of stained-glass windows and corrugated metal, it was built in 1879 amidst the Oak Bluffs campground community. It replaced a one-ton tent used by the Methodists who congregated at this spot for their religious summer gatherings. The Martha's Vineyard Camp Meeting Association, (508) 693-0525, offers a free schedule of events open to the public, including concerts (James Taylor has played here), flea markets, and interdenominational services.

Union Chapel
Kennebec Ave., Oak Bluffs• (508) 693-9010, (508) 693-2426 in summer

When it was built in 1872, this was a
nondenominational church. The octagonal-shaped building is now used for summer concerts and a jazz series as its acoustics are quite good. This church building features some interesting architecture, including a three-tiered roof.

 

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Edgartown

Cape Pogue Lighthouse
Chappaquiddick Island

By far the toughest of the island's lighthouses to visit, the Cape Pogue Lighthouse is at the northernmost tip of Cape Pogue on the island of Chappaquiddick. Built as a wooden lighthouse in 1801, it was destroyed by the sea and replaced in 1838. The second light lasted for about 50 years until it too was destroyed and was replaced by a third, which was replaced by a fourth in 1892 (do you see a trend developing here?). This fourth lighthouse, which stood 33 feet high, was replaced by the present structure in 1922. This present lighthouse has earned its place in the Lighthouse Hall of Fame by being the only one ever moved in one piece by a helicopter. The feat took place in 1985 when the structure was moved 300 feet back from the water because, you guessed it, it was in danger of being destroyed by the ocean. It stands 55 feet tall. Located at the farthest reaches of Chappaquiddick, the lighthouse is not accessible by road.

Edgartown Lighthouse
Off N. Water St., Edgartown

Originally constructed on an artificial island in Edgartown Harbor in 1828, sands have since built up to connect the site with the beach. Before the sands filled in, there was a long wooden walk that led out to the lighthouse. This was called the Bridge of Sighs because it was a popular spot for young whalers to bring their girlfriends or wives before heading out on a long journey. In 1938, the lighthouse was replaced by another that was floated to this spot from Ipswich (a town on Massachusetts' North Shore).

Ferry to Chappaquiddick
Edgartown Harbor, Edgartown

We don't know if you would actually consider this a point of interest, but it does meet the criteria for a must-see when visiting Edgartown. Two simple ferries, On Time II and On Time III, make the daily runs between downtown Edgartown and Chappy, transporting you, your car, bicycle, or moped in the process. By the way, the ferries have never been late, thus earning their names. Of course, there is no schedule, they just transport people and vehicles as they arrive, but regardless, they have never missed a deadline. Round-trip fares are $5 for a car and driver, $1 for each passenger, $3 for a bicycle and rider, and $4 for a moped.

Dr. Daniel Fisher Home
99 Main St., Edgartown• (508) 627-4440

This fine example of Federal period architecture was built in 1840 as the home of town physician and whaling mogul Dr. Daniel Fisher. Fisher was also the founder of the Martha's Vineyard National Bank. The building was
recently restored by the Martha's Vineyard
Preservation Trust. For more information or to
arrange a guided tour call (508) 627-8619. Otherwise, stop by. Tours are held throughout the day between 10 AM and 2 PM Monday through Saturday during July and August and include the Old Whaling Church and the Vincent House; the cost is $5. The Dr. Daniel Fisher Home is also available for weddings and receptions; call (508) 627-8017.

Old Whaling Church
89 Main St., Edgartown• (508) 627-8017

This is an absolutely massive structure, with six gigantic wooden columns supporting the weight of the centuries and a 92-foot clock tower whose four-pointed spires seem to challenge the heavens. Since 1843 this soaring tower has been a landmark for sailors approaching Edgartown by sea. Built as sturdy as the old whaling ships, with 50-foot hand-hewn pine beams joined with wooden pegs, today the church is a 500-seat performing arts center. Summer church service is still held here on Sundays, as are weddings and receptions.

Pagoda Tree
S. Water St., Edgartown

A visit to Edgartown would not be complete without a visit to the famous Pagoda tree along S. Water Street. The tree was planted during the mid-19th century by Capt. Thomas Milton who carried it as a seedling from China. As you stand beneath its reaching branches, just imagine the sailors who, upon a hot summer's day, dodged the sun within the shade of her spreading limbs. It is considered perhaps the oldest and largest specimen of its kind in America.

The Vincent House Museum
Off Main St., Edgartown• (508) 627-8619

This gem of a full-Cape was built in 1672 and is considered to be Martha's Vineyard oldest residence. It is behind the Old Whaling Church and the Fisher House. Interestingly, sections of the interior walls of this museum have been left open and unfinished so you can observe its original Colonial construction. The cost to tour the museum alone is $3, so you may as well pay the additional $2 to tour the Old Whaling Church and Vincent House (see the combined-tour information under the Dr. Daniel Fisher House entry, above). Children under 12 tour the museum free of charge. Tours are held from 10 AM to 2 PM, Monday through Saturday.

Vineyard Museum
8 Cooke St., Edgartown• (508) 627-4441

This museum complex consists of four buildings that form 1 square block. The 1765 Thomas Cooke House was once a customs house and now houses antiquities of the island including tools and folk art. Exhibits to honor the whaling industry, such as scrimshaw and ship models, can be found in the Foster Gallery, while Native American and island geophysical exhibits can be found in the Pease Galleries. The Gale Huntington Library is a must for those interested in genealogy, while the carriage shed houses a whaleboat and a fire engine dating back to 1854. If you're a lighthouse enthusiast, be sure to get a look at the original Fresnel lens from the Gay Head Lighthouse. The lens, now resting on the museum's front lawn, was installed in 1856 and removed from the lighthouse in 1952. It is illuminated a few hours each evening during the summer months. The museum is open from 10 AM to 5 PM Tuesday through Saturday. Admission for adults is $6 and $5 for youth under 15.

Whale Memorial
Across from Memorial Wharf, Edgartown

A fitting memorial to the whales and the whalers is the Whale Memorial located down near the harbor in Edgartown. The memorial features a sculptured whale diving into the ground with its flukes raised and a whaleboat in pursuit. It was erected in 1995 and says it is "Dedicated to the whales and the whalers who pursued them."

 

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Up Island

Gay Head Cliffs
State Rd., Aquinnah

Travel up to Aquinnah and you'll think you've landed on an entirely different island. Aquinnah Cliffs, at the westernmost reaches of Martha's Vineyard, are the island's most popular and most photographed tourist attraction. Its clay cliffs cause you to catch your breath in awe of that which only nature herself could possibly create.

These 150-foot-high clay cliffs were originally named Dover Cliffs by explorer Bartholomew Gosnold, who first discovered the island in 1602. The Wampanoag Indians of the area have their own name for this place unlike any other--Aquinnah. Gay Head, the cliffs' other name, came from British sailors who sailed past this distinctive geological formation during the 17th century.

Today, the cliffs are owned by the Wampanoag Indians of the area. Formed during the ice age, the cliffs are a geological treasure chest as well as a paleontologic gold mine with the numerous fossils unearthed here. The cliffs also had some practical uses. For instance, early islanders used the cliff's clay to make paint and bricks. The high cliffs were also a prime vantage point, a high ground you might say, and a perfect place to put a lighthouse (see below). The cliffs, now a national landmark, are protected in an attempt to reduce erosion. Only the Aquinnah Wampanoag Indians are allowed to remove clay from them.

Gay Head Lighthouse (also called Aquinnah Lighthouse)
Aquinnah

High atop the Aquinnah Cliffs is the red brick Aquinnah Lighthouse, built in 1844 to replace its wooden sister. The original lighthouse was built by order of President John Adams. Due to a mingling of two tides, one from the north and one from the west, this stretch of ocean is considered very treacherous. Devil's Bridge off Aquinnah has wrecked many a ship over the centuries, including the City of Columbus in 1884 with the loss of 120 lives. The Fresnel lens of the second lighthouse, which for the better part of a century warned sea captains of the hazardous cliffs, was removed in 1952 and is now on display at the Vineyard Museum in Edgartown.

Mayhew Chapel andIndian Burial Ground
Off Indian Hill Rd., West Tisbury

This area known as Christiantown, known to the Wampanoag Indians as Manitou-wattotan, can be found off Indian Hill Road in West Tisbury. You follow a dirt road to this historic site hidden in the woods (just keep going--it's up there, believe us!). Here stands the small Mayhew Chapel, built in 1829, and the adjoining Indian Burial Ground. The chapel is scarcely 20 feet by 15 feet, and yet it contains a dozen pews and a small altar! Early settler and minister Thomas Mayhew, Jr., preached here, converting many native inhabitants in this area to Christianity. In the nearby cemetery, nameless stones, perhaps as many as a hundred following the hilly terrain, mark Indian graves. It is a unique historical location, moving in its simplicity.

Menemsha Fishing Village
North St., Menemsha

A classic fishermen's harbor, Menemsha was the site chosen to represent Quint's home port in the movie Jaws. There are some unforgettable shots of the harbor in the movie, notably as Quint's vessel ORCA is chugging out of the fishing port to hunt down the 25-foot great white shark. In fact, a local told us that until recently one of the fishermen's shacks still had the name "Quint" painted on the door from the days when the movie was shot here. Furthermore, another local told us that the ORCA itself lies wrecked across the harbor at the mercy of the elements two decades after the mechanical beast staved her.

Beyond this bit of Hollywood, Menemsha is everything you expect from a salty fishing port: piles of lobster traps, heaps of discarded quahog shells, men wearing yellow waders bathed in fish blood, their faces aged by years at sea. Along the docks are little weather-beaten fishing shacks with shingles either warped with salt breezes, painted with gull droppings, or else missing altogether.

Menemsha also is home to one of the best sunset venues anywhere. From Menemsha Public Beach you're facing due west, giving you a great opportunity to watch the golden sun melt into the Atlantic.

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Tours and Excursions

Boating excursions are popular throughout the island. We'll let you in on a few of our favorites.

There are a number of companies presenting narrated tours. Gay Head Sightseeing, (508) 693-1555, Island Transport, (508) 693-0058, and Martha's Vineyard Sightseeing, (508) 627-8687 all have buses waiting as you come off the ferries at Oak Bluffs and Vineyard Haven. Tours run from mid-May through mid-October. All three tour companies offer two and half hour tours of the six island towns; the cost is about $13.50.

The Arabella
Menemsha Harbor• (508) 645-3511

This 50-foot catamaran sails out of Menemsha Harbor twice a day in season. Captain Hugh Taylor will take you to Cuttyhunk (or the town of Gosnold)--the only public island in the isolated Elizabeth Islands chain. Or you can take a sunset cruise to the Aquinnah Cliffs. The day sail to Cuttyhunk leaves at 10:30 AM and returns at 4:30 PM. It costs $60 per adult or teen, half that for children under 12. The sunset sail leaves at 6 PM (or thereabouts) and returns after the sun has totally set. The sunset cruise costs $40 for adults and teens, and $20 for children under 12.

Ayuthia
Coastwise Harbor, Vineyard Haven• (508) 693-7245• www.mvy.com/ayuthia

This truly classic 48-foot Gaff Ketch yacht sails out of Coastwise Harbor offering half- and full-day sails and overnight trips to Nantucket and the Elizabeth Islands. Master Captain Tom Grew offers one trip a day from 1 to 4 PM. The fare is $60 per person and well worth packing a picnic, perhaps a bottle, and joining him as the experienced captain takes you on a traditional sailing experience.

Mad Max
Edgartown• (508) 627-7500• www.mvy.com/madmax

Mad Max leaves Edgartown to cruise along Chappaquiddick and past Oak Bluffs. A 60-foot-long by 25-foot-wide catamaran, it departs twice a day at 2 PM and 6 PM daily. Rates are $45, with children under 10 paying $35. An Insiders' tip: You get $5 off per person with a cash payment.

Shenandoah
Vineyard Haven• (508) 693-1699• www.coastwisepacket.com

If you really want to splurge, consider a six-day cruise aboard this square topsail schooner. If you have the time and money, you'll enjoy life in various ports, including Newport, Rhode Island; Block Island, Rhode Island; and Nantucket. Meals are included, as are the memories. The fare depends upon the trip, but average $850 per person per trip and $650 for kids under 14.

Whale Watch Express
One Toledo St., Teaticket (Falmouth)• (508) 548-3047

East Coast Tours of Cape Cod provides round-trip van service from the Woods Hole (Falmouth) ferry dock to Barnstable Harbor and the Whale Watcher Cruises. This is a hassle free way to get to the most exciting and wonderful of the Cape's attractions at a very reasonable cost. Reservations are required to take part in the service provided from mid-May through the end of September depending upon weather. Costs are $40 for adults and $25 for children under age 12 and includes round trip van service and your whale watch ticket.

 

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