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Shopping

Can a Martha's Vineyard vacation truly be called a vacation without a little shopping along the way? How will you be able to prove to your friends back home that you were on the island without purchasing a Black Dog T-shirt before you leave? Ours is not to question why, ours is to do the tourist thing and shop.

There are many fine shops dotting the main roads of Vineyard Haven, Oak Bluffs, and especially Edgartown, where you can kill an entire day browsing and buying. The offerings are varied and the treasures you'll find are many. Like most things in life, the pursuit is half the fun, and on Martha's Vineyard you are afforded many opportunities to enter the pursuit.

Besides individual shops, you'll also find a handful of what can best be called mini-malls (very mini, and "mall" isn't even the proper term). Tisbury Marketplace on Beach Road in Vineyard Haven is such a place. Another spot is Dockside Market Place on Oak Bluffs Harbor along Circuit Avenue Extension, which is a superb spot to do a little gift shopping, have a bite to eat, or just grab a beer or glass of wine and watch the boats go by. Not to be outdone, Edgartown has a number of shops clustered at the Colonial Inn on North Water Street, just across from the harbor.

What follows is a smattering of the island's shops--our short list of what we consider required stops. You'll find that many of these shopping locations, as well as many more not listed here, are a short walking distance from each other. For instance, Circuit Avenue in Oak Bluffs provides an easy walking tour of what we estimate at 75 percent of the shops in that town, while Main and North Water streets contain perhaps well over half (if not three quarters) of all the shops in Edgartown.

Unless otherwise noted, all the shops listed accept major credit cards and are open year-round.

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Vineyard Haven

All Things Oriental
57 Beach Rd., Vineyard Haven• (508) 693-8375

You'll think you've left the island for the Far East when you visit All Things Oriental, located right down there in the old Yankee port of Vineyard Haven. This store is brimming with a stunning collection of Oriental antiques for the serious collector, as well as furniture and porcelain, hand-carved fans, rugs, jewelry, lamps, and a host of other things too numerous to name. Whether you go home with a single pearl earring or a magnificent 19th-century armoire or rare hutch--or nothing at all--you'll probably be glad you stopped in just to look over a fascinating inventory. The name of the place says it all. All Things Oriental is open mid-May through Christmas.

The Black Dog General Store
Water St., Vineyard Haven• (508) 696-8182, (800) 626-1991• www.theblackdog.com/store

This is the place--the place where all those Black Dog T-shirts, sweatshirts, and caps come from. You've seen them everywhere. All the Black Dog souvenirs you could ever think of are here, even some for your own pooch at home. Sweaters, coffee mugs, key chains, even mouse pads emblazoned with that famous black lab. There are some sweets here too: brownies, espresso-bean brittle, and human-shaped dog biscuits. Whatever you can't find at the store you may find in their 26-page oversized catalog. Also on the grounds is the Black Dog Bakery and the Black Dog Tavern (see our Restaurants section in this chapter). The store is open year-round.

Bowl & Board
35 Main St., Vineyard Haven• (508) 693-9441• wwww.bowlandboard.com

Wind chimes fill your ears with the sounds of invisible island breezes as you enter this airy building. It's filled with a premium selection of housewares, home furnishings, and wooden items. Wooden baskets abound. And if you ever need a candle, there are plenty here. You will also find an array of rugs, picture frames, and pottery just to name a few items from the constantly changing inventory.

Bramhall & Dunn
19 Main St., Vineyard Haven• (508) 693-6437

This store, just up the road from the ferry, is a shopper's delight. Here you'll find things that are folkish--from women's clothing to hand-knit wool caps and sweaters, hand-hooked and woven rugs, elegant picture frames, English pine antiques, beautifully crafted ceramic bowls, and so many other perfect gifts. Interestingly, all the furniture in the store is for sale. Owners Emily Bramhall and Tharon Dunn personally choose the items they sell, and in fact, they travel to England once a year to make their selections. Bramhall & Dunn also have a store on the island of Nantucket. Both stores are open year-round.

Bunch of Grapes Bookstore
44 Main St., Vineyard Haven• (508) 693-2291, (800)693-0221• www.bunchofgrapes.com

Bunch of Grapes? This place should have been called Bunch of Books. Lots and lots of books are arranged on two floors in this rustic barn. As you go up the stairs there is a stained-glass window of yellow and red and orange--mesmerizing. With an endless array of best sellers and island-related titles (more than 38,000 titles spread throughout 5,000 square feet), it is one of the premier bookstores on the island, as well as being in the top 20 of independent booksellers in the nation. We're told that the late Jackie O shopped here--Oh boy! Browsers are especially welcome.

C. B. Stark
126 Main St., Vineyard Haven• (508) 693-2284, (888) 227-8275• www.cbstark.com

The artists here create jewelry in the form of familiar island sites, such as the Chappaquiddick Ferry; the Flying Horses Carousel; town and village signs; the Aquinnah, West Chop, East Chop, and Edgartown Lighthouses; a Chilmark scallop; Menemsha lobster; the Island ferries; the Black Dog; and just about any other Vineyard thing that comes to mind. C. B. Stark is best known for its grapes design. All charms are available in sterling or 14-karat gold. C. B. Stark also sells six lines of watches with, of course, Martha's Vineyard on its face.

C. W. Morgan Marine Antiques
Tisbury Wharf, Vineyard Haven• (508) 693-3622,

If you're one of those people who like things nautical, you'll like what you'll see at C.W. Morgan Marine Antiques. Collector Frank M. Rapoza has put together such an impressive display of marine antiques you'll think you're in a maritime museum. Yet, the great thing about this display is that it's all for sale. Here you will find centuries-old chests, models, paintings, compasses, and seafaring equipment. The shop is open mid-May through Christmas Day and other times by appointment by calling (508) 693-3530.

Midnight Farm
18 Water St. and Cromwell Ln., Vineyard Haven• (508) 693-1997

The great thing about being on an island is that even the shops have a view of the water. Such is the case with Midnight Farm, which has windows overlooking Vineyard Haven Harbor. Inside the store you'll find a wide assortment of items, from clothing to old-fashioned leather photo albums to books, toys, candles, and antique furniture to shampoos and bath oils. This is the store to visit if you're looking for that unique gift idea. How about antique Victorian beach boxes, pottery, cashmere throws, baskets, or a CD or book autographed by Carly Simon (one of the owners of Midnight Farm)? It's open year-round.

Robins Fudge and Candy
10 Main St., Vineyard Haven• (508) 693-6188

Hey, every once in a while you have to sin a little. Robins Fudge and Candy offers the greatest temptations: Homemade fudge and candy, chocolates, truffles, taffy, and caramels are waiting for you just a short walk up from the ferry. You'll think you've died and gone to jelly bean heaven, for every conceivable flavor is here--from island punch to toasted marshmallow and everything in between. The store, open year-round, also offers a tasty selection of sugar-free goodies, and they do mail order.

 

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Oak Bluffs

Hilliard's Kitch-in-vue
158 Circuit Ave., Oak Bluffs• (508) 693-2191, (877) MV CANDY• www.badcandy.com

Here's another great place to indulge in a sugar rush. David Hilliard has been carrying on the tradition his grandparents started back in 1945 of making homemade chocolates and candies, saltwater taffy, buttercrunch, truffles, and turtles. The smell alone will make even the staunchest dieter's knees buckle, and belt unbuckle. If you opt for mail order, the yummies are sent on the same day they are ordered. Hilliard's is open year-round.

Laughing Bear
138 Circuit Ave., Oak Bluffs• (508) 693-9342

There's nothing like a bear with a sense of humor, but we still can't figure out the name. Regardless, the Laughing Bear specializes in clothing--bright, colorful clothing. You'll find chenille and cotton fashions, velvet scarves, and satin gowns. The store also sells plenty of interesting jewelry. Laughing Bear is open from the beginning of May through mid-January.

The Secret Garden of Martha's Vineyard
148 Circuit Ave., Oak Bluffs• (508) 693-4759

This delightful store is full of great ideas for gifts, or better yet, for yourself. There is a selection of books, many island-related, as well as jewelry and Vineyard-related items. We particularly enjoyed the miniature wooden gingerbread cottages. The Secret Garden is open year-round.

 

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Edgartown

Bickerton & Ripley Books
Main St., Edgartown• (508) 627-8463• wwwbickertonandripley.com

This independent bookstore is certainly the bookstore of Edgartown. With more than 20,000 titles, Bickerton & Ripley Books has built a reputation for finding the perfect match of title to customer. It features regional books and author signings. Some of the authors who have been here are pictured on the wall leading upstairs to the second level. Whether you are looking for a serious read, a paperback for the beach, or something for the kiddies, this store is sure to fill your bill. It closes January through April.

Edgartown Hardware
47 Main St., Edgartown• (508) 627-4338

Built in 1946, this place personifies small-town Americana: a super-friendly staff, shelves overflowing with things you may need, and an ambiance right off a Saturday Evening Post cover. It's worth a stop. Edgartown Hardware is open year-round.

Essense
38 N. Water St., Edgartown• (508) 627-3840, (800) 332-6315• www.essense.com

Opened in 1983, this exquisite perfumery is just one of a number of shops situated at the Colonial Inn. You can select from more than 350 natural scents and 150 fragrant oils. Or if that's not enough, they'll create a fragrance just for you. Essense also sells aromatherapy and spa products, island-made skin-care products and a myriad of scented products for body and home. It's open mid-May through Christmas.

The Fligors
27 N. Water St., Edgartown• (508) 627-4722• www.fligors.com

This store has been on the island since 1960 and has a little bit of everything. You'll find kids' clothing, toys, collectibles, Vineyard artwork, ties, clocks, lamps, and interesting seasonal items for Halloween, Thanksgiving, and Christmas. If you're looking for a gift, this is the spot to find one. The Fligors, which is owned by Richard and Carol Fligor (in case you're wondering about the name), is open year-round.

In the Woods
55 Main St., Edgartown• (508) 627-8989

What was once a former supermarket now houses a collection of impressive handmade wooden gadgets, everything from wooden kitchen utensils to wooden kids' toys to wooden bowls and wooden doodads with mysterious purposes. There's even a wooden canoe for sale. Did we mention all the wood? Then there are the homemade jams and jellies, rugs, and birch birdhouses. In The Woods is open from mid-March to early January.

Island Pursuit
Main St., Edgartown• (508) 627-8185

Stop by the Island Pursuit to pursue Vineyard sweatshirts and hats. Or to really prove that you were on the island, get one of those cool oval MV stickers for your car. Full of comfortable, high-quality, casual clothing, Island Pursuit also has some waterproof jackets to repel the most foul weather the island can dish up. Besides the Edgartown store, there is also an Island Pursuit in Vineyard Haven and on Nantucket.

Mariposa
12 N. Summer St., Edgartown• (508) 627-9332

Mariposa owner Nancy Antik lives up to her name. Her store offers the finest in antiques on shelves, racks, and tables and in the display window. Here you will find hand-painted pottery, linens, picture frames, chests, even hanging wrought-iron candleholders from India and Mexico. Step into a world of perfect, albeit unusual, wedding or anniversary gifts. Mariposa is closed Wednesdays and Sundays and is open mid-May through Christmas.

Murdick's Fudge
21 N. Water St., Edgartown • (508) 627-8047Corner of Union and Main Sts., Vineyard Haven • (508) 693-73445 Circuit Ave., Oak Bluffs • (508) 693-2335• www.murdicks.com

This island fudge factory has locations in Edgartown, Vineyard Haven, and Oak Bluffs, so you'll know you're never very far from your next chocolate fix. Peanut butter fudge, double-chocolate fudge, butter-pecan fudge, Cape Cod cranberry fudge . . . it's just fudge, fudge, fudge everywhere you turn! Murdick's ships daily to 48 states, so now all your friends and relatives can join in too. Don't wait too long to order, though, as the Vineyard Haven and Oak Bluffs stores (on Main Street and Circuit Avenue, respectively) close around Columbus Day. The Edgartown store is open from April 1 through December.

Willow
4 Kelley St., Edgartown• (508) 627-6674

This jewelry shop showcases an incredible display of sterling silver, semiprecious stones and pieces from Mexico, Africa, and Indonesia. Willow also has museum quality geodes, amethysts, and crystals. The shop is open from the beginning of May through the end of October and on weekends only through the second week of December.

 

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Entertainment and Nightlife

The Vineyard can kick up its heels as well as any resort destination. However, the island also is a haven for artists and performers, lending more than just a touch of culture to this island paradise.

For those in the 21-plus crowd, bars close at 1 AM (except in the dry town of Vineyard Haven where there are no bars). Many places have live entertainment in season. You'll find most of the action in Oak Bluffs and Edgartown. Unlike the Cape mainland, you'll generally find a good supply of public transportation and cabs to help you plan a fun and safe evening.

Here's a list of island spots where you can enjoy a well-rounded assortment of entertainment and nightlife.

Movies

For the latest cinematic releases, check out the Capawock Theatre on Main Street in Vineyard Haven, which is open year-round. Seasonal theaters are the Island Theatre at Circuit Avenue in Oak Bluffs and The Strand across the street (and across the street from the Flying Horses Carousel). All theaters can be accessed by calling the Martha's Vineyard Moviehouses at (508) 696-7469.

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Vineyard Haven

Island Theater Workshop
Vineyard Haven• (508) 693-4060, (508) 693-5290

This is the island's oldest year-round theater company presenting original plays as well as musicals and dramas. The group presents several shows a year at various venues. They also offer classes for children and adults. It is associated with the Young Director's Studio, Apprentice Players, The Theatre Guild, and Children's Theatre.

Owen Park
Off Main St., Vineyard Haven

Ocean Park
Seaview Ave., Oak Bluffs

Music fans will appreciate the free Sunday night summer concerts alternately given at Owen Park off Main Street in Vineyard Haven and at the gazebo in Ocean Park on Seaview Avenue in Oak Bluffs. The events are quite festive, and as you lie back on your blanket, the music provides the starry night sky with a soundtrack.

Tashommo Overlook
State Rd., Vineyard Haven• (508) 693-6450

Summer Shakespeare takes the stage at the natural Tisbury amphitheater. Ticket prices run anywhere from $5 to $10 for adults and $3 to $5 for children. A helpful hint: It's Shakespeare outdoors, so you may want to bring along a blanket and plenty of mosquito repellent.

The Vineyard Playhouse
24 Church St., Vineyard Haven• (508) 693-6450• www.vineyardplayhouse.org

The Vineyard Playhouse is a nonprofit community center professional theater that puts on shows throughout the year. Tickets cost anywhere from $17.50 to $27.50 during the summer season. The Playhouse offers educational programs for both adults and children as well as children's shows with tickets around $6. The Playhouse stages four different presentations each summer, between June 15 and September 10, and during the summer of 2000 presented the Tony-award winning play The Beauty Queen of Leenane.

 

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Oak Bluffs

The Atlantic Connection
124 Circuit Ave., Oak Bluffs• (508) 693-7129

This is the dance place on the island for the under-30, younger crowd. The band these days (and for many days before!) is ENTRAIN, which performs world beat rock. When there isn't a live band performing, the music is provided via a DJ who hosts a dance party. Besides providing the hottest rock and rhythm and blues, the Atlantic Connection also provides some non-rock selections, such as country line dancing. There is also comedy. The dance floor here is quite large and is always packed. It is open seven nights a week from Memorial Day to Labor Day and Wednesday through Saturday nights in the off-season.

Lola's
Beach Rd., Oak Bluffs• (508) 693-5007• www.lolassouthernseafood.com

This hot spot is next to the Island Inn on the Beach Road on your way to Edgartown (or if you're coming from Edgartown, it's on your way to Oak Bluffs). It's jazz and blues each night in July and August and Wednesday through Saturday night during the rest of the year. Look to their website for a calendar of entertainment. Lola's is open year-round.

Season's Pub
124 Circuit Ave., Oak Bluffs• (508) 693-7129

Right next to (and adjoining) the Atlantic Connection is its more mellow companion, the Season's Pub. This busy pub offers acoustic guitar and favorite rock and folk music nightly from 9:30 PM to 12:30 AM. There is a Sunday afternoon happy hour, and in mid-September they hold the Annual Halfway to St. Patrick's Day party (see the Annual Events section, below) featuring live Irish music.

Tabernacle
Campgrounds,Oak Bluffs• (508) 693-0525

The Tabernacle on the campgrounds in Oak Bluffs often hosts free band concerts and shows by big-name performers. Also, if you like sing-alongs, tune up your vocal chords and set aside an evening or two for communal music making. Every Wednesday at 8 PM in season, the Tabernacle hosts a community sing-along. A songbook is provided for a small donation.

 

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Edgartown

Federated Church
S. Summer St., Edgartown• (508) 627-4421

At the Federated Church of Edgartown, there is a free recital on an 1840 organ every Friday afternoon at 12:10.

The Old Whaling Church
89 Main St., Edgartown• (508) 627-4442

The Old Whaling Church is often used for live performances. The day we stopped by, there was an organ recital and high tea to benefit the restoration of the 1855 Simmons & Fisher organ. Performers such as Livingston Taylor visit regularly.

The Seafood Shanty
Dock St., Edgartown• (508) 627-8622

The Seafood Shanty on Edgartown Harbor is one of several Vineyard restaurants that feature piano and classical music. Entertainment is provided in the Shanty Pub Wednesday through Sunday evenings.

 

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Up Island

Chilmark Community Center
Beetlebung Corner, Chilmark• (508) 645-9484, (508) 645-3100

Beetlebung Corner's Chilmark Community Center is often a spot where outside concerts take place. The Center also holds dances and other social events for all ages including a family folk dance.

David's Island House
120 Circuit Ave., Oak Bluffs• (508) 693-4516

Monday through Friday from May through September, David's Island House features a piano bar along with seafood, pasta, and cocktails.

Hot Tin Roof
Martha's Vineyard Airport, West Tisbury• (508) 693-1137

Blues and rock are served in large portions here in this hot club located on the road leading to the airport. Local and nationally known artists perform here. The Hot Tin Roof was built in 1974 and was repurchased in 1996 by original owner Carly Simon.

Lampost
111 Circuit Ave., Oak Bluffs • (508) 696-9352

This is a hot club for the younger-than-30 crowd. Local bands perform here two nights a week until midnight or so, April to October. The Lampost is open from 12 noon to 12:30 PM nightly.

Martha's Vineyard Chamber Music Society
Vineyard Haven • (508) 696-8055

The MVCMS has been committed to bringing outstanding music to Islanders year-round for 30 years. Winter concerts fill the cultural yearning of year-round residents, and the 12-concert summer series is always a highlight for vacationing music lovers because they take place at different locations around the island, courtesy of the Martha's Vineyard Chamber Music Society; call for a schedule. A number of concerts are held at Edgartown's Old Whaling Church and the Chilmark Community Center.

Rare Duck
111 Circuit Ave., Oak Bluffs • (508) 696-9352

Another happening hotspot on Circuit Avenue is the Rare Duck, located beneath the Lampost (see the entry for the Lampost earlier in this section). The Rare Duck attracts the younger-than-30 crowd, offering an assortment of local entertainment nightly from April to October.

Wintertide Coffeehouse
Beach Rd. Ext. (Five Corners), Oak Bluffs • (508) 693-8830

This nonprofit year-round eatery and club was founded in 1978. It features some of the best up-and-coming (and established) folk, jazz, and blues performers, including Tom Paxton and Patty Larkin. A Singer/Songwriter's Retreat and Concert Series is held every September at Wintertide allowing audiences to meet and greet great musicians and to hear their music.

The Yard
Middle Rd., Chilmark• (508) 645-9662
• www.tiac.net/users/theyard

This is a 100-seat theater in a renovated barn off in the woods of Chilmark. A professional dance troupe, The Yard stages various theatrical events and dance previews throughout the summer season. Designed to sharpen the skills of professional artists, The Yard supports original works. Located near Beetlebung Corner, it is culture out amongst the trees. Tickets are $12 for adults and $10 for students.

 

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